The Balance of PH… Realigning the Hair

ph chart no background

A chemical service that involves colors, bleach, perms, or relaxers etc. will cause the “pH” of the hair to rise dramatically! How much rise in “pH” is dependant on how much time it’s left on and how much heat was introduced.

This dramatic rise in the “pH” will swell the hair shaft and cause damage – limp, dry, splitting, faded, breaking, weak and so on.

Through research from many different sources, it was concluded that “contraction” of hair was the real answer, not protein replacement. All hair types responded completely to this treatment of contraction. Swelling is hair damage and not loss of protein.

For every twenty degrees rise in heat, an active chemical will double in strength. Applying oils, proteins, and/or vitamins etc. will NOT reduce the swelling. As a professional, it makes no sense to just coat over and hide the damage. Science demands a solution founded on facts!




  • A chemical service swells the hair shaft, and the only way to reduce the swelling is with an acidic solution applied after the chemical service.


  • The strength of acidic solution needs to be strong enough to reduce the swelling to normal.


  • Moisture, “water”, must be present and locked in to maintain healthy hair.

ph chart no background

The “pH” chart shows how chemicals used in the salon affects the hair.

  • Notice the “values” assigned to each “pH’ number.
  • Neutral “pH” of 7 has a value of “0”. Swelling takes place anytime an alkaline solution is added to the hair.
  • A “pH” of “8” has a value of “10” because it’s 10 times more alkaline than “7”
  • A “pH” of “6” has a value of “10” because it’s 10 times more acid than “7”

IF YOU SWELL THE HAIR WITH A CHEMICAL THAT HAS A pH VALUE OF 11 (10,000 times more alkaline), YOU MUST CORRECT THIS DAMAGE WITH A SOLUTION ON THE ACID SIDE BY NEUTRALIZING AND NORMALIZING THE HAIR (10,000 times + more acidic) Notice most conditioners do little to correct the damage that alkaline chemicals cause.

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